the Kimono Hierarchy of the Edo Era 士農工商
In the vibrant tapestry of the Edo Era's social hierarchy, the kimono played a significant role in defining the status and identity of each class. From the lavish garments of the samurai to the practical attire of the farmers, and the artistry of the artisans to the refined clothing of the merchants, let's delve deeper into the fascinating details that adorned the kimono of each class.
Samurai: The samurai, warriors of the feudal era, wore various types of kimono depending on the occasion. During battles, they donned armor and war attire, including the iconic samurai armor (yoroi) and battle kimono (jinbaori). At home or during tea ceremonies, they wore more elaborate and refined kimono, known as "homongi" or "iro-muji (solid color)," featuring intricate patterns and designs. The wives of samurai, known as "onna-bugeisha," also wore kimono that reflected their status, often featuring delicate embroidery and luxurious fabrics. Children of samurai families had their own miniature versions of kimono, adorned with age-appropriate motifs and colors.
Farmers: The farmers, the backbone of society, wore kimono known as "noshi kosode" in their daily lives. These kimono were characterized by practicality and durability, as they needed to withstand the demands of labor-intensive agricultural work. Simple and earthy tones such as indigo and brownwere commonly used, reflecting their close connection to nature. Notably, within the farming community, a unique textile tradition emerged called "boro." Boro referred to patched and repaired garments that were passed down through generations, showcasing the resourcefulness and resilience of farmers. (That is the nice way of saying it, but basically they were extremely poor)
Artisans: Artisans, skilled craftsmen and artists, showcased their creativity and expertise through their kimono. Each artisan group had its own distinct style and motifs. Dyers (yaritori) incorporated bold and vibrant colors, creating intricate tie-dye patterns like shibori. Weavers (oriyasan) specialized in creating intricate textile designs, with motifs inspired by nature, folklore, or geometric patterns. Other artisans, such as potters and lacquerware makers, also had their unique garments that reflected their craft. The kimono of artisans displayed a harmonious blend of artistry, craftsmanship, and personal expression.
Merchants: Merchants, known for their business acumen and economic influence, wore kimono that showcased their refined taste and sophistication. While they became wealthy, there were certain restrictions on their attire. They were prohibited from wearing certain colors, such as purple and gold, which were associated with the imperial family. Additionally, they were not allowed to wear luxurious silk fabrics like the samurai class. Instead, they opted for high-quality but more subtle kimono designs, often featuring discreet patterns and refined colors that reflected their status as successful merchants.
By exploring the intricate details and symbolism of each class's kimono, we gain a deeper understanding of the diverse fabric of Edo Era society. From the attire of samurai during war and tea ceremonies to the practical garments of farmers and the artistic expressions of artisans, each kimono tells a story of identity, tradition, and the values held dear by its wearer.
